The Art of Taarof

Good Persian culture is peppered with politeness and a pretense at least of being humble. Iranians have a complicated list of things that are considered good and polite in social situations, and not different from those of other cultures. Generally, you want your child to marry into a good family. You want the families to be educated and wealthy and you want your children to be upstanding and polite. You also want to be looked upon by family, friends, and neighbors alike as a gracious, hospitable and welcoming host. “Taarof” has deep roots in the Iranian tradition of treating your guests better than your own family and being great hosts. Taarof is a verbal dance between an offerer and an acceptor until one of them agrees. It is a cultural phenomenon that consists of refusing something that has been offered to you even though you want it, out of politeness. On the giving end, it is offering something that may cost a lot in order to be polite, but not really wanting to give it away for free.

Some examples may clarify taarof. You go over to your aunt’s place and she makes a great Ghormeh Sabzi dish for lunch, which is your favorite. You help yourself to a healthy serving and at the end of it find that you are still hungry. Your kind, loving aunt will offer you another serving and you politely refuse. In this case you are taarof’ing because you would really like to eat more but you are too polite to say yes. But, alas, the Iranians have a solution for this. Your aunt will offer the food a second time and you refuse and then on the third try you can accept without looking like a glutton. Iranians tend to be very sensitive of what others will think of them so this sort of behaviour is expected, although annoying and perhaps antiquated, it is an inherent part of the culture.

Another example is when you go to buy a dress at the store and ask for the price. If it is a small boutique in Iran, the shopkeeper will inevitably, out of politeness, say it is worth nothing. What he is trying to say is that you are worth so much more than the dress and have put him to shame for asking. In reality, he would like to be paid for the dress and is just being polite. After a second or third inquiry, the shopkeeper will probably give you the correct price and offer to accept payment.

The art of taarof in the end becomes a ritual or a game that both participants are aware of playing. Some find it annoying, stupid, and a waste of time, asking the guest not to Taarof (“Taarof Nakonid”) when he refuses something. This is a double-edged sword because maybe the offerer is taarofing himself. This is where taarof can be misleading and land you in very sticky social situations. You never know the true intention of either party and you may not be sure if they really want to offer/take something or not. For example, if you are full and your aunt thinks you are taarofing, you are left having to eat the second serving of her food. And if you don’t eat it, you may insult her and her cooking.
Some of us wish we could do away with this tradition entirely and just be more like Germans, but then again what would our mothers think? Generally though, taarof at parties and social gatherings can be very charming, fun and completely harmless. It is truly one of the greatest distinctly Persian social behaviours that we can think of and is worth experiencing first hand.

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The Culture of Tea

A big part of the day is consumed by drinking tea for a lot of Iranians. This can be true of a lot of Asian cultures but Iranians have managed to raise the culture of tea drinking to a very distinctly Persian method. This method involves making the tea in what is called a samovar, a brilliant Russian invention for brewing the perfect cup of tea. Traditionally Iranians use a samavar or samovar to make tea. This Russian custom was introduced to Persia in the 18th century and was brought to Russia from West Mongolia in the 17th century. The first samovar factory was founded in Tula in Russia in 1778 and soon became the most popular way for brewing tea. The early samovars were made from cupronickel, red and green copper, pinchbeck, in some cases from silver. Sometimes they were plated with gold, silver, but basic metal was always brass. In the course of centuries samovar shapes changed. Till 20th century they were all hand made and used charcoal to warm up and boil the water. Later liquid fuel like kerosene was used and currently they all work with electricity.

The water is boiled gradually in the large reservoir, there is a central tube in the middle that will carry the steam and the teapot is place on top of this tube and the steam brews the tea slowly. Tealeaves are used and tea bags are not popular. Two or more teaspoons of tealeaves will be put in the pot depending on how many teacups are required. Then the pot is 1/3 to 1/4 filled with boiling water from the reservoir through a small tap. The tea is brewed for 10 to 15 minutes. This tea is very strong and highly concentrated. Only a small amount will be poured in the cups and the rest of the cup will be filled with boiling water from the reservoir. The tea that is brewed longer is spoiled and becomes too strong.
Tea is grown in Iran and is also imported from India. The good quality tealeaves have a unique taste and perfume that is accented by brewing and steaming slowly using a samovar. Sometimes two different kinds of tea will be mixed to get the best taste and perfume. Darjeeling tea, Jahan tea from Iran and India and recently Ahmed tea from India are popular ones, however there are many other varieties available. Many Iranians have got their electric samovars and they can be bought from most Iranian or Russian stores.

If buying a samovar you must make sure that the inside of the reservoir is not copper or lead. There is a possibility of lead or copper poisoning in such cases. There are very good quality samovars made in Iran and Japan and many Iranian stores sell them. Most modern samovars are made from stainless steal and are very safe. There are decorative ones made in Iran that is gold or silver-plated from the outside. Always check the inside to make sure they are properly sealed if you are going to use them. They are dangerous items to have around children, since they contain large quantities of boiling water and are normally placed on a table.

Many Iranians have replaced them by specially designed kettles with a tap for boiling hot water. They place these on stovetops to bring the water to boil and place the teapot on the top like a regular samovar. These are always used in the kitchens but make sure children do not have access to them. The tea is drank with sugar or other sweets and is the most popular drink in Iran. The teacups used in Iran are similar to many used in Turkey and other Middle Eastern countries. They are like small glasses with a saucer and might not have a handle. This makes it difficult for people who are not used to the. Milk is usually not added to afternoon tea and people may like them strong or weak depending on their taste. Tea in Iran is most always consumed with sweets, and pastries. These can be anything as simple as a lump of sugar, or a variety of Persian Baghlava, cookies, shirini, and other sweet Persian desserts.

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Bilakh - The Iranian Middle Finger

There are many little nuances to every culture that make it unique, and sometimes very funny. Perhaps one of the most misunderstood signs in Iran is the "Bilakh". Bilakh, a hand sign showing one thumb up, is made when one is upset and is trying to tell someone to buzz off, or is trying to get back at them. Unfortunately for the Western world, this sign is the equivalent of the "thumbs up" sign and is often misunderstood and mistaken for the wrong thing.

The origins of bilakh are very obscure and quite debatable. Some say it is what people would want you to sit on if they felt anger towards you. What the middle finger in the West does for telling the person to "f. this" then has a very similar meaning which is "sit on this thumb" (ouch!) and think about that for a while. It is thought that the origins of it also stem from practical jokes where people would place sharp or phalic objects on seats to have people sit on them by mistake and poke fun at the person. In Iran, a bilakh is "given" typically when:

1. One is upset at someone and needs to tell them to "stick it where the sun don't shine"

2. One is trying to prove a point or to get back at someone in the sense of "I told you so". Here the thumb is considered to be handed to them in their lap as a sign of defeat. This is the adult version of sticking your tongue out, which Iranians do all the time.

Word of caution: the bilakh is considered a very very rude gesture. The equivalent of the "thumbs up" then would be a victory sign, holding one hand up and making the V sign with it.

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Iranian Caviar

Perhaps one of the most prized and delicious products that come from Iran is the Iranian caviar. Caviar can be very expensive due to its rare and delicate nature. Iranian caviar is the roe or eggs from female sturgeon fish caught in the pristine environment along the Caspian Sea. About 90% of Caviar production of the world comes from the Caspian Sea, and it is thought the southern fish, caught along the Iranian coastline produce the best caviar in the world. Caviar is particularly delicate, and difficult to process and handle. The manual labor that goes into packaging the product naturally adds to the cost of the product.
Caviar production starts with catching the fish and bringing them to the all sterile processing facilities, where the fish are washed several times. The next step is to gut the fish, and wash the roe. The eggs are then weighed and strained through a sieve to remove any additional dirt. Next the caviar is salted and packaged into special containers. These containers are then shipped of the retail locations in big cities and major ports.

Iranian Caviar has many followers and like any other delicate food demands a discriminating palate. Iranian caviar is also graded depending on the fish, and the quality of the eggs. Important factors in grading and rating caviar include uniformity of eggs, size, color, egg separation, fragrance, pellucidness and hardness of the eggshells. Each fish has two grades 1 and 2. The fish are (from highest quality to lowest) Beluga, Asetra, Sevruga. The lowest grade goes to Pressed Caviar.
Iranian Caviar is present at stately events, dinner parties and even at home. It can be eaten all on its own or on a thin toasted piece of bread. It can be consumed with grated onions, boiled egg, butter, cheese, and a few drops of lemon. This of course all depends on your taste and preference.

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Iranian Saffron

Although the roots of the spice Saffron are believed to originate from ancient Greek or Roman times, Saffron plays a tremendous role in Persian Cuisine today. According to Greek legend, a handsome mortal Crocos fell in love with the beautiful nymph Smilax. But alas, he was rejected by Smilax, and turned into a beautiful purple crocus flower (crocus sativus). Saffron comes from the Arabic " assfar", meaning yellow. Today's saffron comes from the bright red stigmas of the flower, which flourishes in the fall in many different countries, including Iran, Egypt, Morocco, Greece, India, and Spain. It is native to Asia Minor, where it has been cultivated for thousands of years to be used in medicines, perfumes, dyes, and as a wonderful flavoring for foods and beverages. Persian Saffron is one of the best and highest quality products in the market because of the ideal conditions that it grows in. This tasty spice is also the most expensive spice in the world. American and Mexican saffron is usually safflower, a member of the Daisy family and used also to produce safflower oil. This imitation is dried, and imparts the same yellow color to foods, but it has no distinct flavor and is not a good option. Iranian saffron is grown mostly in the south of Iran, in the province of Khorasan. When saffron shopping, check the Saffron threads (Stigmas) for a deep red color. This is Iranian Sargol and is acknowledged as the best Saffron in the world. Also, it is best if the saffron threads are thoroughly dry and brittle to the touch. The saffron aroma is very strong and always fresh. Be ware of musty or old saffron by checking for these important signs of high quality Iranian saffron.

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Iranian Pistachios

As one of the most delicious, and most popular exports of Iran, the pistachio has a special place in every Iranian’s heart. It is the kind of food that brings families together and is ever-present in every home, ready for the unsuspecting guest or neighbor who may drop in for tea. The Iranian pistachio trees have been around for thousands of years and are home in Kerman province, where more than 160000 hectares of land are under pistachio cultivation.

Pistachios are a natural and healthy snack and can also be used as a delicious ingredient in a variety of dishes and desserts. It is high in energy, potassium, protein, vitamins, minerals phosphorus, calcium, and all the essential amino acids. It is believed that the consumption of pistachio reduces the risk of heart attack and death from coronary diseases. Iranian pistachios come in many varieties and forms. They could salted, roasted, limed, spiced or eaten raw. Iran not only produces the finest variety of pistachio, but is also the top producer of the product, outputting an annual average of 130000 tons. There are different types of Iranian pistachio. These include round pistachios called “Fandoghi”, jumbo pistachios called “Kallehghouchi”, long pistachios called “Akbari”, or “Ahmadaghi Badami”. Iranian Pisachios are by far, the best tasting, and biggest pistachios produced.

Nutritional Information for pistachios:

Total Fat of pistachios 48.4 gr/100 gr % total fat: Saturated 13% Mono-unsaturated 68%, Poly-unsaturated 15%, Dietary fiber 10.8 gr/100 gr, Vitamin E 5.2 mgr/100 gr

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Iranian Ajil, Tokhmeh, & Other Nuts

One of the most popular snacks to offer guests and just have around the house, next to pistachios, is the famous Iranian Ajil. Ajil is a general term used for any type of mixed nuts. Each nut has a name in Farsi, and there are different types of Ajil. Some Ajil is used at different occasions, for example there is Ajil on Chaharshanebh Suri. If the Ajil belongs to a certain event or occasion, people some times keep the Ajil and think of it as carrying good omen or luck, especially if it comes from a Sofreh. There are two types of Ajil, the sweet and the salty king. Salty jjil will typically consist of almonds, roasted squash seeds (tokhmeh kadoo), roasted melon seeds (tokhmeh hendooneh), roasted chickpeas, walnuts, cashews, hazelnuts and other items. Sweet Ajil will also have some dried raisins (keshmesh) or dried tut, which another fruit, found all over Iran.

Other nuts served as snacks include almonds, cashews, walnuts, and all types of roasted seeds called tokhmeh, such as sunflower seeds (tokhmeh aftabgardoon) or roasted pumpkin seeds. Tokhmeh is the generic term for any type of roasted seed. The seeds can come from Watermelons, honeydew melons, sunflowers, squash and many other vegetables or fruits. Iranians often roast the seeds with salt, or lime or rose petals and enjoy this delicious snack by breaking the shell and retrieving the inside piece of the seeds.

Heavenly Pomegranates

Perhaps the most delicious and mysterious fruit in the world, the pomegranate is a symbol of strength and a testament to the Persian culture. It is found in many Persian dishes, the best being Khorosht-e Fesenjaan, a chicken dish with walnuts, chicken (you can substitute meatballs if you wish) and fresh pomegranate juice or pomegranate paste. The pomegranate, known as "anar" in Farsi, also makes an appearance at weddings, on the Sofreh Aghd, and can also be included in the Haft Sin at Noruz. It is indeed a lucky and happy fruit, filled with ruby red jewels which can be used in dips, appetiziers, salads or even a cocktail such as the Pomtini. The pomegranate, known as Punica granatum, is an Iranian fruit that has since travelled to the other parts of the world and is enjoyed by many cultures and cuisines.

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Buying Tips for Iranian Carpets, Rugs, & Kilims

Perhaps the most famous carpets in the world are Persian Rugs. These items of luxury come in many different shapes, forms, and prices. Persian Rugs are usually hand-made of fine materials such as silk or wool. There are many regiosn all over Iran that make carpets. To look for a quality carpet, be sure to watch for these major things:

1. Love it as Art. A carpet from Iran is a piece of Art meaning there is no objective way of pricing it. Make sure you love the style, pattern, color, feel, and look of the carpet. If you are spending a large amount of money, look at it as a long-term investement and do make sure it fits into your lifestyle and into the environment for which the carpet is intended.

2. Know your knot count. The number of knots per square meters or "gereh" in Farsi is a big value factor for any carpet. Persian carpets tend to have various different gereh (knots/m2). When you find a rug that you like, count the number of knots/m2 yourself. You can do this by turning the carpet over and starting from the top of the carpet. The count is also listed in more prominent stores so that you don't have to count it yourself. Typically carpets run in these knots per m2: 10.000, 40.000, 90.000, 160.000 and 250.000. The more knots/m2, the finer the carpet is. This means more attention and work has been paid to the carpet and therefore it is of higher quality.

3. Stay within your budget. Check to see if the carpet is handmade or machine made. This will be a factor in determingn the price. Naturally, the hand made ones are more expensive. This can be told by looking at the back of the carpet from the corner to see if the patterns of knots are regular (machine) or a bit off (hand-made).

4. Select a region. Study the regions from which Iranian carpets originate and you will notice a pattern in their look. The more you learn, the more you will know what you prefer. Once you have narrowed it down to a region, you are one step closer to your carpet.

5. Shop around. At this stage, with a specific style, color, price and the region, you should be able to go to a few stores and find the perfect match. Be sure to look online for price comparisons. We do not recommend buying carpets on any online auction or online stores. It is best if you can see, touch, and feel what you are buying before you make the commitment.

Also, keep in mind that there are a lot of less expensive rugs, and kilims, which have more modern or simpler designs. These are authentic work from the villages of Iran and are a great alternative if you are ona tight budget. They are very durable and easy to clean and bring life to any room.

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The Games of Iran

Ancient Iran boasts the origin of many exciting games, which are still played all over the world. The first of these games is backgammon. It is believed that the origin of the game was in Mesopotamia in the ancient Persian Empire, modern day Iran, Iraq and East Syria. In those days, the game was played on wooden boards as the table, stones, and numbered dice made from bones, stones, wood or pottery. The popularity of the game is still quite high in Iran and many other countries such as Greece, Italy and the Far East. The game is called "Takhteh Nard" which is Farsi for "Battle on Wood". The word “takhteh” means wooden board and “nard” is battle.

Another one of the most popular games still played today in Iran is chess. The origins of chess have always been debated between India, China and Persia. We believe it was originated somewhere in the Persian Empire, which may be part of modern India today. In either case, the game, referred to as “Shatranj” is a highly intelligent and simulating game, which is played by almost all Iranians and has been played all over the world for centuries.

Another popular game, which records its origins in ancient Persia, is the game of Polo. The sport is known as “Chogan” and goes back nearly 2500 years. The Chinese also claim to a similar Polo tradition dating back several thousand years. In all probability the game came from Central Asian nomads who lived on horses and traveled through as far East as the Great Wall all the way the Caspian Sea. In either case, the ancient sport of Persian kings is immortalized on brightly colored miniature paintings and elaborate tapestries today. Polo is not commonly played among Iranians partially due to the need of the equipment and horses. The game has experienced a revival in recent years among Polo lovers with the formation of a National Polo Team.

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Daf & Other Persian Instruments

Persian Music is very distinct and Iranians pride themselves on the variety of instruments that are used and created in Iran such as the Tombak (Dombak), Santur, Kamancheh, and the Daf (bottom right). Although a variety of all these instruments exist in other cultures, many of them take origin in ancient Persia. The Tonbak is a goblet-like drum and is the nation's offical drum instrument.

The Santur (bottom left), which is a stringed instrument played with two delicate wooden mallets, is also very unique. It has 72 strings over two sets of 9 bridges on each side producing 27 diatonic tones. The Daf, with the Pahlavi name dap, a tambourine-like instrument, goes to pre-Islamic ages. Ancient literature shows us the importance of this Persian drum in Persian Sufi music. Daf was at times considered a spiritual drum played in khanghahs of Iran, particularly Kurdistan.

Another great Persian instrument is the Kamancheh (Kamaancheh). This instrument is a type of folk violin, played with a bow. The body of the kamancheh is wooden and hemispherical, allowing for sound to be reflected out. It is usually covered with a thin sheep or fish skin. There are three silk strings in the traditional instrument, although modern ones have four metal strings. Perhaps one of the most ornate of Iranian musical instruments, the kamancheh is often decorated with mother of pearl hand carvings, and beautifully shaped ivory tuning pegs.

More recently, the interest shown in ethnic music and Middle eastern music has brought many famous Persian players to the forefront of the music industry. Many musicians have become more and more interested in these instruments and will hopefully carry on the great tradition of Iranian music.

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