Guide to The city of Esfahan

Perhaps the most beautiful city in Iran, Esfahan, Isfahan or Isphahan, used to be the capital of Iran. The city boasts a vast province located between Tehran and Fars and looks like a pleasant oasis as one approaches it from the great deserts. A lush and green city, Esfahan has many wonderous sights such as blue tiled mosques, ancient palaces and majestic bridges.

Esfahan was a big city of interest for Shah Abbas I (Shah Abbas the Great), who after making the town his capital in 1598, rebuilt the main monuments and building which are so regularly visited today. Shah Abbas was a man with great vision and he modernized the town with large tree-lined avenues, vast gardens, libraries, schools, and mosques. Esfahan was chosen over the old capitals of Tabriz and Qazvin, because it was considered safe and far away from the reach of the Ottoman Empire.

Esfahan is populary known as "Esfahan, nesf-e Jahan" which means Esfahan, half the world. It was a major stop on the "Silk Road" and became an international trade, diplomacy, and commerce center. To this day, the city offers a plethora of resident languages, ethnicities, and religions, and is also known for its silver filigree and metal work. The river Zayandeh (Zayandeh Rood) runs through the enter of the city, keeping it fertile and lively.

Esfahan suffered bad invasions, such as the Afghan attack in the 18th century. Despite the wars and years of history, the city has managed to keep much of its important sites and rehabiliated many of the old palaces and monuments. The charming tea-houses, bazaars, and Hotel Shah Abbas alone are worth a visit. This city of grandeur and glory remains one of the most beautiful cities on earth and is a must-see on any trip to Iran.

Things to See

1. Ali Qapu Palace - Pronounced Aalee Ghapoo, this majestic palace and gardens is located on the south-east corner of Imam Square (Maydan-e Iman, formerly called the Maydan-e-Shah). Ali Qapu means "The High Gate". With an impressive entrance, the palace was the headquarters of the powerful Safavid monarchs. Built in the 18th century, it served as a functioning seat of government. The Safavid kings had a huge terrace or "talar" built in front, from which they could watch polo games and keep an eye on the daily activities in the square.

Ali Qapu palace is elaborately decorated with handwork ranging from paintings to exquisite woodwork. The columns of the palace were originally covered from top to bottom with mirror work to create an illusion of a roof floating in the air. Each column is cut from a single chenar trees, which are very particular to Iran (Platanus orientalis).

Inside the Ali Qapu palace, you will find beautiful murals, depicting scenes from nature and history. Unfortunaley many of the wall and ceiling paintings have been destroyed over the years through the different invasions and the poor upkeep of the art. Perhaps one of the most amazing rooms in Ali Qapu is the "Music Room", which showcase a unique and ornamental plaster work on the walls and ceilings. Different instruments and vase shapes are cut out to create hollow areas to create better acoustics. It is said that before women were allowed to sit in and listen to the musician (men) playing, they would hear the music after they had left the room as these shapes created an echo effect which kept the music inside the rooms. The lower floors of the palace were used for servants and reflect the spare decorations and comfort that was afforded to the guardians of the Empire.

2. The Bridges of Esfahan - Perhaps one of the most impressive sites in this city is the river and massive bridges (pol) which have been built to connect the city together. The Rood-e Zayandeh has many elaborate and long bridges which cross it. Among the most popular are the Sio Seh Pol (Siyo Se Pol) and the Pol-e Khaju (right). The Zayandeh River itself is 360 km long and provides water for the homes, and gardens of the entire city.

Built in 1602, the Siyo Seh Pol, which means "33 bridges or arches" is 300 m long. Strolls on this bridge at night as wonderful, providing a magnificent view over the Zayandeh River and the lights of the city. Stop by for tea and snacks in the small tea and hookah houses located underneath inside the bridge archers.

Khaju Bridge was built by the order of Shah Abbas I in 1650 as a dam. It is 132 m long and has two levels. The bottom level of the bridge regulates the flow of river by massive locks. Today you can still see the remains of stone seats built for the great Shah Abbas and his relatives to sit and watch over the glorious view.

3. Masjed va Maydan-e Imam - This complex is the main square (Maydan-e Emam) in Esfahan, leading to Masjed-e Imam. Pronounced Masjed-e Emam, this magnificent mosque is one of the most impressive and beautiful religious forms of architecture in the world.

Originally built as the royal mosque and named "Masjed-e-Shah", this structure was built by Shah Abbas I to complete the magnificent central square of the city. This opulent mosque is renowned for its beautiful blue tilework and the attention to detail in its ceilings and walls. Although work begun on this place of worship in 1590, it was completed only in 1611, sadly after the death of the enthusiastic Shah Abbas.

The main architect of the site was Ostad Abu'l Qasim and a famous calligrapher named Ali Reza worked on the majestic entrance murals. In addition, there are an estimated 18 million bricks used in the construction of the building with a reported 472,500 tiles used. Visitors may go inside and view the interior rooms, and courtyard and take pleasure in the splendor of this glorious architectural feat. There are many other mosques and religious places to visit in Esfahan and they are listed below.

4. Chehel Sotoon Palace & Gardens - One of the most magnificent sites in Iran, the Chehel Sotoon Palace and Gardens is one of the two remaining pavilions, the other one being Hasht Behesht. Chehel means 40 and sotoon means columns. Though the structure actually has 20 column supporting the magnificent entrance, a reflecting pool has beautifull doubled the number to forty.

Inside the Chehel Sotoon, you will see wonderful art. Although some of this work was damaged in a fire in 1706, a lot of restoration work has gone into the site since. The main reception hall a domed rectangular room lined with four large historical murals. An example of this is historic mural depicting Tahmasp, a Safavid King, receiving Humayun, a Moghol Emperor. This encounter was of historical significane because it strengthened the Safavid claims over the Moghol (Mughal) Empire. Humayun was the second Moghol Emperor, taking over in 1530.

There are smaller rooms accessible at the corners of the pavilion, with wall paintings of either pleasure or literary scenes, executed in a style earlier to that of the reception hall paintings. The gardens and exterior of the building are also quite stunning.

5. Menar Jonban - Known as the "Shaking Minaret", the Menar Jonban (or Minar-e Jonban) dates back to 1316 A.D. It not only houses the tombstone of Amu Abdollah but also has two towering minarets, one on either side of the mausoleum. It is said that by shaking one tower, the other one produces an equal movement on the other side without any motion being felt in the main terrace between the two towers. To many, this is an unexplicable wonder and an architectural mystery. They say the towers were built this way to protect against high winds and outside forces. A popular destination, the Menar Jonban was built in the style of the Moghol period (ca. 14th century) with clay-colored bricks and blue tile zig zags up the columns, indicative of that era.

The main terrace of the mausoleum (eevan) has been decorated more blue tiles and an inscription on the tombstone. It reads, "This is the tomb of the virtuous, god-fearing Sheikh, Amu Abdollah ibn Muhammad ibn Mahmud Saqla, may God bless his soul."

Other noteworthy sites in Esfahan

1. Hasht Behesht - Located in Bagh-e Bulbul, which means the "Garden of Nightingales", the Hasht Behesht was built by Shah Suleyman around 1669. Hasht Behesht means "Eight Paradises" and refers to a Timurid palace building type consisting of two stories of 4 corner rooms around a central domed space. Usually, the corner rooms are octagonal, forming massive pillars that define four large openings leading to large verandas in the south, east and west, and an terrace with a view (eevan) in the north. There are 19th century works of art on display which complement the central pool and fountain to form the perfect Persian paradise.

The Hasht Behesht enhanced among others, the famour poet Chardin, who wrote in 1676: "When one walks in this place expressly made for the delights of love, and when one passes through all these cabinets and niches, one`s heart is melted to such an extent that, to speak candidly, one always leaves with a very ill grace. The climate without doubt contributes much towards exciting this amorous disposition; but assuredly these places, although in some respects little more than cardboard castles, are nevertheless more smiling and agreeable than our most sumptuous palaces."

2. Masjed-e Jameh - This mosque is perhaps more intricate and interesting from an architectural perspective. Known as the " Friday Mosque", the day when group prayers are haeld, this mosque exquisitely designed. It was commissioned by Sultan Oljaitu in 1310. It has a mehrab, which is the prayer corner, 65 feet long and 25 feet wide. The interior and exterior of the structure are worth a visit.

3. Vang Church - Constructed in 1655, this amazing church is beautiful both from the inside and out. Though the Vang or Vank Church (right) was completed fully by 1664, major parts of it have been renovated and rehabiliated since. There are very many intricate paintings and murals on the ceilings and alcoves of this church depicting Christian scene. The artwork dates back to when the church was first built. The church design has also been influenced by the surrounding Mosque-style architecture with reflective domes and mediterranean blue influences so prevalent in Islamic art. In addition to the majestic cathedral, there is also a library and museum for visitors to enjoy.

4. Mirza Kuchak Khan Park - A great place to go for a stroll and get away from the traffic in the city. Mirza Kuchak Khan (1880-1921) was from Rasht and a great Iranian revolutionary. This park is filled with flowers in spring and is one of the favorite spots for a pic nic or a place for a lazy afternoon in Esfahan. There are of course many other parks in Esfahan, such as the Chardin Park and many others lining the Zayandeh River.

5. Other Mosques of Esfahan - Esfahan is home to many "Emamzadeh" and mosques, where brilliant Islamic art can be studied and admired. Among these are Masjed-e Shaykh Lotfollah (Loft Allah), which was completed in 1618. The Shaykh or Sheik was a scholar of Islam and originally from Lebanon. Shah Abbas had invited him and subsequently put him in charge of the mosque and the school of theology. The mosque consists of decorations at the entrance complemented with with stalactite and blue and yellow mosaics. There is also the unusual peacock and flower mural which is not typical of religious art but more reflects the royal ties to the Peacock throne. By far one of the most exquisite mosques, this one if worth a visit. Other mosques worth mentioning are Masjed-e Ali, Masjed-e Dashti (good example of Mongol architecture and depicted below), and Masjed-e Hakim. The noteworthy Emamzadeh's include: Emamzadeh Ibrahim, Emamzadeh Ismail, and Emamzadeh Jafar (right).

6. Chaharbagh Avenue - Part of Shah Abbas' large urban project in his new capital of Isfahan, the Chahar Bagh is a four-kilometer avenue to the west of Abbas' maidan. A central garden, riginally including a water channel and fountains, divides the avenue into two lanes. Residences of noblemen once lined the avenue, with pavilions overlooking the garden.

7. Harun-e-Velayat - Erected in 1512, the Harun-e-Velayat or Haruniyeh is made of a cupola, a tomb-box, two courtyards and two portals decorated intricately with mosaic tiles.

8. Mahiar Caravanserai - This caravansary with four porches is located n the village of Mahiar, just south of Esfahan. The structure was a popular spot along the Silk Road for travellers who needed a place to wash, eat and rest along the long trade route. There are the original mills, bakery, traditional teahouse and bazaars to visit.